A bold take on Greek culture in 1995, the Arctic Gentleman and a wardrobe of forward-thinking jerkins, doublets and pool points are just some of the ideas the Parisian designer has submitted for Fall 2023.
Here’s a look at some of the new names for the Paris calendar.
Gunther
Naomi Gunther is Parisian, born and raised, but it’s the New York state of mind that launched her menswear brand.
“When I moved [there] For my fashion studies, I found [city’s] said the 27-year-old, who studied literature in the French capital before turning to fashion and heading to New York. He became fascinated by “the way men dress, the combinations of clothes, the sizes, the layers, the way they play with new forms”, and Parsons of the New School, where he switched to his menswear program in his final year at the School of Design.
Gunther said her artistic references are two-sided, with one being rooted in the early 20th century, especially New York’s Gilded Age. Central to this period for her is Jay, her Gatsby figure as the epitome of her American dream, and her debonair gangster with her demeanor and class. Another one is her culture and streetwear from the late 1970s to her 80s hip hop. She described these pieces as a mix and match of accessible clothing that relies on dressing up and exploring new ways of dressing.
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The Cue collection revisits menswear mainstays of golf pants, pinstripe suits and cardigans with contemporary urban elements such as baggy pants, varsity jackets and tracksuits.
In the seventh season, titled ‘1995’ after her year of birth, she explores the 1990s and her artistic culture, from the beginnings of the internet and paparazzi culture to the ubiquitous screens and her earliest memories. Explore visuals. trip. 90s iconography also influences details such as buttons and prints.
The brand manufactures its collections in Paris and retails at €130 for premium cotton tees, €295 for denim trousers, €790 for reversible puffer jackets and €1,100 for recycled wool coats.
Juntaekim
For Seoul-London based designer Juntae Kim, it’s a clear distinction between contemporary garments rooted in functionality and sustainability, and ostensibly obsessed historical garments such as corsets, doublets and jerkins. Incompatible things are a constant source of attraction.
He first spent four years pursuing a Bachelor’s degree in Womenswear in South Korea, followed by another two years at the London College of Fashion in London, followed by an MA in Menswear at Central Saint Martins. Got.
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The South Korean-born designer describes his namesake brand as a gender-fluid clothing line, explaining that it “aims to modernize old and historic textiles and craft techniques.” , described it as merging them into current activewear and sportswear forms to “make them accessible to a diverse group of people.” A community regardless of race, gender or class. There is also a stereotypical Asian trope in his field of vision, which he plans to upend with a further bid for integration, he said.
Cue denim trousers with corset fronts, jerkin-style flight jackets, and other slash puffers from the MA 2022 collection and later “Garden Punk” spring 2023 collection were worn by heavy hitters like Dua Lipa and stylist Harry Lambert. garnered a lot of attention and acclaim.
Entitled “Romantic Poetry,” the Fall 2023 collection takes cues from the 1989 film Dead Poets Society, starring Robin Williams as an English teacher and inspiring students through poetry. .
Through Kim’s lens, we revisit the film’s formal school uniforms and preppy aesthetics. A wide range of pore points, corsets and other doublets are all added. Prices start at around £450 for tops and go up to £1,200 for Kim’s intricately detailed technical his outerwear.
Tron
After over a decade leading the menswear design studios of Tom Ford, Brioni, Givenchy and Burberry, and working with “big, great characters” such as Ford and Riccardo Tisci, London-based designer Jasper Tron has made a name for himself during the pandemic. I’ve noticed that the beginning of offers something new. time to reflect.
“If there ever was a right time to step out and work on it yourself, it would be [the pandemic]’ said the Danish-born designer. [his] bookshelf for understanding what [he] what i found beautiful [his] It was aesthetic.
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Toron concluded that what he most wanted was “to create clothing that not only frees himself, but has an element of freedom.” This stems from the liberation he felt when he chose to pursue menswear at his Ravensbourne University in London.
Adding his happy place – “on a Greek island, where you can wear silky, blousing things and be a little more rowdy and glamorous” – his brand was born.
An echo of Julian Schnabel’s “anti-reality pajama uniforms” are printed silk shirts, lightweight windbreakers, shorts, and even overalls, with sophisticated designs adapted to Greco-Roman motifs such as wrestlers, plants, and geometric friezes. , has influenced the Ruche lineup.
Some of that freedom is also taken into account for a wider range of body types. “I’m a pretty big guy and I’m limited in many ways when it comes to clothes,” he said. There’s also his penchant for loose cuts, which he hopes will “need to cover up to XL.”
The first full-scale Tron collection continues to explore “Aegean vacation fantasies and love letters to the male body.” His maximalist print-adorned silk separates cost up to £850.
Carmuel Young
Examine the typical male body long enough and the geometric shapes that make it up begin to emerge. A trapeze representing broad shoulders and small hips, a bulky biceps curve, or even his sharp V-shape at the base of the neck.
And it’s easiest when you’re facing your base material in the mirror every day.
After graduating from the University of Technology in Hong Kong in 2007, Young moved to Europe, working for Damir Doma and Ute Ploier, teaching them how to “build a collection with a core idea” and eventually launching a designer label. I believe I taught
After gaining further experience with Lane Crawford and IT and the Trinity Group, the designer first launched her own brand as a footwear line in 2014 and launched ready-to-wear in 2019.
his angle? “Shaping better silhouettes for men” through a daily wardrobe that emphasizes, plays with, and sometimes distorts the geometry of the body. Thus manufacturing, fitting and finishing details are his three tenets for this label that explores the realm between tailoring and casualwear that Young dubs “the new formal.”
Consistent with this everyday idea, Young decided to develop the brand as a themed project that could span multiple seasons rather than changing tacks every six months.
Now in her eighth collection, the Hong Kong-based designer continues her springtime surreal desert journey with a Fall 2023 collection based on the idea of a ‘Gentleman of the Arctic’. Expect tailoring with shaggy fabric accents. Playing on the scale with overly tight, oversized fits and coated fabrics to represent the different textures observed on ice.
Shirting, the brand’s key category, starts at $300 to $1,000 to turn complex cuts and treatments into outerwear propositions, while trousers average around $500.
