With many big brands seemingly hitting the reset button, here are some highlights from Sunday’s third day of Fall/Winter 2023, mostly menswear previews.
As the ceiling of the darkened Prada showroom was lifted, an industrial chandelier was the first look on the runway. A tailored, somewhat blocky suit, her jacket was protected and cushioned by a hint of colorful color, with a sharp collar that fluttered gently with each step. knit.
A retro geometric print collar, reminiscent of the 1930s or 70s, lends a romantic touch to the understated and clean collection by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.
“There is no space for useless creativity,” summed up Prada backstage.
The sharp collar seen on cardigans is detachable, enhancing the durability and practicality of the garment. On the runway, she took off her shirt and showed off her sexy style.
The pair continued their quest for uniforms that exemplified the value of work rather than projecting authority. It was worn with a shirt and tie to emphasize the virtues of work and was worn over this season’s slim trousers.
The clean looks and minimal tailoring have an intentionally retro-futuristic feel, which Simmons defined as “very Prada-y in my opinion.”
The puffer coat had a rounded shape. A quilted t-shirt kept the torso warm under the overcoat. The shoes were thick-soled lace-ups with raised piping. The bag is a slim document bag or computer bag with a thermos slot.
Suits are mostly black or gray, and separates are red or green trousers, cerulean blazers, and yellow and pink cardigans, proving the colors.
Even the Fondazione Prada venue, down to the concrete floors, walls and ceilings, was stripped of artifacts and put back on once the models left the runway.
Outside, hundreds of screaming K-pop fans greeted the Enhypen band as they arrived at the show, and a few were rewarded with selfies afterwards.
Simon Cracker pays tribute to Vivienne Westwood
The designer behind the Simon Cracker brand paid tribute to Vivienne Westwood’s legacy with a runway show unveiling her latest collection of upcycled clothing.
“We are here because of her. Filippo Biraghi, who founded Simon Cracker with Simone Botte in 2010, said she was the first to make clothes from upcycled materials.
“We studied her, we wore her, we lived her, we felt an alliance.” She used fashion to protest as a language of protest against her entire history. bottom.”
Following in Westwood’s upcycling footsteps, designers collect uncollected clothing from dry cleaners and textile remnants from producers to create their own creations.
In this punk-inspired collection, each garment is unique and encourages incompatibility. The miniskirt was made from ruffles on the front and a net on the back. A handmade blanket became an overcoat. The knitwear is made from recycled yarn and created in collaboration with designer Gaia Segatini.
In keeping with Westwood’s spirit, the show concluded with the model wearing a tulle garment with “Demand the Impossible” written on the front. This garment was a collaboration with Jamie Reed, Sex his Pistols art director, who donated clothing from his “Ragged His Kingdom Brand” for the final look.
In the finale, all models wore a picture of Westwood around their necks.
The designers have said their message has been more urgent since the brand’s creation, citing dangers to the planet and “a mockery of the system.”
“If you’re not pissed off today, something is wrong,” Biraghi said.
