MeThis is a zeitgeist film with divided opinions. Loved by critics, award-nominated, and praised by Martin Scorsese. On the other hand, noted conductor Marin Alsop was slated as being “anti-woman” and was derided for being patronized by younger audiences for disrespecting cancel culture. There’s one area where everyone agrees that Tarr, Todd Field’s epic about the depraved reputation of , excels. It’s clothes.
Lydia Tarr (Cate Blanchett) embodies the power lesbian ideal. Crisp pale blue button down. A cashmere sweater draped over her shoulders as she curled up in a huge, book-lined, ghoulish apartment. She marches through the streets of Charlottenburg in her luxurious virgin wool coat with padded shoulders and a silk shirt underneath. She is characterized by clean lines and sharp silhouettes.
It’s the kind of ambitious wardrobe that swoons people of all genders and has the approval of the fashion world. Usually her aim is to make sure that no one notices the clothes, even though they are part of the language of the film…which was a big surprise to me.”
But Daigeller knew from his first reading of Field’s script that Tarr’s choice of clothing was key to her character, as it is for all of us, perhaps especially in the case of Tarr’s self-mythologizing. I knew
Daigeller approached this task with the same level of research as a period film. The main theme was clear: power dressing. “I think we all do this. We dress a certain way when we need to be strong. [Lydia] Tar emphasizes power and strength. ”
In response to Alsop’s criticism, Blanchett said Tarr was “a movie about power, not about gender.” However, her silhouette is often masculine.
Tar is a wealthy woman. Daigeler mentions high-end her labels such as Margaret Howell, Max Her Mara, and Doris Van Her Noten. Studio Nicholson and Lemaire provided many of the staple pieces. The film’s budget was just $35 million, which proved difficult at times. Blanchett at one point joked that she spent most of it on her Diana coat from The Row, which retails for around £3,000. Tarr carries the iconic Hermès her Birkin (from £7,000) and wears her face-inward Rolex (around £4,000) for women who talk about controlling time.
Daigeler created an entire wardrobe for Tár as if Tár were a real person. There are also a few specified by fields in the script – a tarred baseball cap when traveling incognito. Others were Blanchett’s ideas during the fitting. A shirt worn over a turtleneck, for example, is a styling trick that was also seen at the recent presentation of Brioni, one of the world’s most luxurious brands.
As well as high-end designers, Daigeler brought in vintage blouses and many custom pieces from stores in Berlin and New York. “It was a perfect mix.” The tone was mostly muted to reflect Tarr’s tough personality and “match the gray Berlin sky”.
This is also related to lifestyle. Tár’s beige and pastel oxford shirts and knitwear are unlikely to pick up dirt while you’re doing school runs or flying first class in your Tesla.
Most important to perfection was a penguin tuxedo with a high tar collar. They looked to Austrian maestro Herbert von Karajan and mostly other past male conductors for inspiration.
“I noticed it while watching Kate’s rehearsal” [conducting], it was very important for her to be able to move. But you can also put strength in your core. So I made these high-waisted pants to support her,” says Daigeller. There is an extended scene where Tar visits a tailor and is measured.
Her put-together look becomes somewhat disorganized as the world of tar unfolds. Sweaters are untied and hanging (everything in the movie is Margaret Howell and costs around £300). Even trainers and leather jackets. It’s as rags as a hardworking tar will allow.
The clothes are so nice that I ask Daigeller if he took anything home. she didn’t. To her, she was told, “Once you’ve done her job, it’s over,” but Blanchett did. “There’s a very nice Doris her Van Her Noten suit and I’ve seen her a few times since.”
Is there anything available for Tar fans who may not have the income of a world-famous cultural icon? Try the New York Rangers Baseball Cap. Selling for £16.50.
