Paris — As Paris Fashion Week prepares for Dior Men on Friday, British designer Paul Smith hits the encyclopedia.
Here are some highlights from the Fall/Winter 2023-24 Menswear Show.
Paul Smith changes the century
Smith delves into the history books to create a thoughtful exhibition that blends 1970s London with 1870s cities.
A quilted coat with a checked cloak perfectly illustrates this. It has a wide back, as if it were made in Baker Street, and if it had a pipe, it could have been worn by Sherlock Holmes.
Elsewhere, high white collars evoke 19th-century sophistication, while dark velvet-like coats with large collars reveal a beautiful textured thickness.
This kind of old-fashioned thinking gave autumn and winter a simpler style than usual, but it was a welcome change.
Smith’s touchstone, the 1970s, was also on display. Designs include a puffy checked coat, bright blue print his pants, and loosely colored suits with broad shoulders and rounded edges.
The best looks were a blend of the two eras. For example, his loose cerulean trench coat with voluminous layers paired with his striped blue silk foulard.
