Paris Fashion Week 2023: 4 menswear shows you can’t miss, from Rosalía dominating the runway at Louis Vuitton and Egyptian inspiration from Rick Owens, to bright shades at Issey Miyake and pastels at Ami

But Thursday’s set — a vintage childhood home recreated inside the Louvre’s oldest courtyard — defined Abloh’s tenure from 2018 to his untimely death at just 41 in 2021. It showed continuity with the style of the growth period.

This season, the youthful studio team and guest designer Colm Dillane told us that they grew up as members of the first generation, thriving on super-connectivity. As such, the tailoring-heavy runway had plenty of references to the digital age.

The pattern evokes encrypted computer coding, upcycling handwritten notes (anachronism in today’s world) to create a surreal white suit and top hat look composed entirely of notepads.

At times the collection felt reliant on gimmicks, such as pixelated apples on an otherwise beautiful round-shouldered wool coat.

The light gray suit jacket has a single large childlike button and is tapered to a V shape thanks to its exquisite construction of layers of fabric.

Rick Owens added that his Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection was “about scaled-down architectural forms” and had “a vulgar, ’70s pseudo-mystic scent.”

That was a pretty good description of the creative and hater crazy show I’ve seen acclaimed american designer For inspiration, travel to ancient Egypt, especially Luxor, the former stronghold of the Pharaohs.

One outfit looked like a cross between a pharaonic cleric and a high-octane ’70s rock star, with a provocative bare torso and a black Gothic cloak.

But this was a man’s show that never stopped at one theme.

Cue encyclopedic style contradictions.

Flashes of Victorian dress flared prim, high-waisted silhouettes, while bronze cuffs and chokers added a twist to the dark 50 look collection. It also had the dramatic alien-like spiked shoulders that are now a staple of Owens.

The devil is definitely in the details, especially Environmentally friendly production method The black dye in the collection is made from bamboo charcoal and the green dye from olive waste.

At the Issey Miyake show, a writhing dance troupe performed on the runway against a background of striped lights that set the tone.

More than just a spectacle, I showed you a geometric theme: how simple shapes can be folded to create more complex shapes. The Japanese Maison explored this in several different sections when using its signature techno-pleats technique throughout the show.

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection begins with a beautiful, soft new coat silhouette. It features ridged shoulder tucks and cambered tubular sleeves in a spectacular flash of color. While the silhouette itself looks minimalist, the lines of the pleat grooves reinforce the impression of complexity.

Elsewhere, the idea of ​​simplicity, which yields more than the sum of its parts, was developed with flair in a style called the ‘edgecoat’. and was designed using triangular fabric to create a sublime three-dimensional shape.

An oversized ’80s coat sets the tone for Alexandre Mattiussi’s co-ed style for this fall, unveiled under his brand Ami, and features an ultra-narrow aesthetic.

The silhouette had a confident, faint A-line swag thanks to the loose length of the material, but it was soft and wide, a bit away from the minimalist mood.

It turned out to be a simple, top-selling show.

Pastel colors of soft yellows, beiges and lavender blues dominated, save for a brief burst of dark cobalt that rounded out the collection.

British actress Charlotte Rampling showed off a loosely tailored cobalt suit ensemble paired with an androgynous hairstyle and a bare-chested small V.